From Raw to Finish; Skatewear Brands and Evolving Manufacturing Trends

Last week the Fashion Forward Fitness Team was assigned the task of spotting a specific trend in our market; active wear. First the basic sports like running, tennis, and baseball popped into my mind when hearing the word active. But after a moment of brainstorming I started to consider all categories that are related to active clothing. I have grown up in a time where alternative sports such as skate or surf became extremely popular, widely accepted, and fashionable. I can remember the first time seeing classmates in elementary school with graphic tees, wearing brands foreign to my eyes that would eventually invade my closet throughout high school. This style is known as Urban Skate Wear. I've witnessed skate wear evolve from a black sweatshirt with the logo of a flaming devil, to beautifully detailed skirts and dresses that appeal to the fashionable consumer.

Urban Brands have grown into other markets and place their logo on a variety of products, but a leading foundation and direction will always guide Urban Skatewear, like any category in fashion. Whats interesting about active wear is its emerging innovation. Style is of importance but unlike dresses and blouses, active wear has to provide support in all areas for athletics. This aspect may limit the construction of garments, but also opens up more doors for experimental aesthetics. Shapes can be experimented with for better stamina during sports and Urban Skatewear interacts heavily with the art world. It appeals to an experimental target willing to play around with bold new colors, and creative fresh graphics. Skatewear is generally geared towards males but is also expanding into the women's market as well. Urban brands not only provide durable gear but are now experimenting with fashion items such as purses, sunglasses, wallets etc.

One of the major trends I personally perceive is Urban Skate Wear as the new preppy. Just like the popularity of Abercombie & Fitch in the late 1990's through the early 2000's, A large portion of the youth has started representing more alternative brands in the last few years. Urban Skatewear provides a larger variety design wise than "preppy". Once I noticed the majority of kids decked out in Volcom or Enjoi, and the minority of kids dressed in preppy brands, I recognized a popular trend of current times. Preppy and Skate are two totally different styles, but fashion is fashion, and follows the same life cycle formula, from A to Z.

Below describes researched emerging trends for A/W and S/S 11/12. These trends are specifically focused on manufactured results regarding details such as stiching, textiles, finishes, technology, dying, cut, graphics, and the overall mood created and design trend that will surface.

1. Textiles

-Casual Jersey deciphers urban looks

-Natural synthetic jersey contrasts with flawed characteristics with melange and yarns.

-Powdered, mottled yarns

-Engineered cotton and twill. (This will produce classic flat fabrics the produce the "workwear" style that is pointed out in the RVCA article as their trend for S/S 11

-Sherpa and lined fleece for winter

2. Stiching

-Exposed linings

-Exposed seams

-Double face construction

-Materials like sportwear seaming and taping are used for practical and visionary applications

3. Cut

-Cutwork

-Contrasting fabrics

-Multi-pull inserts

(All add dimension to tee's and pants)

-Cut and sew jersey and woven fabrications are paired with subtle resistance

4. Finishes

-Pollutes spray dyes

-Pigment washing

-Emulating weathered surfaces

5. Color

-Bleeding gradient color and linear fills add depth to prints

-Mixed combo of pattern and solid

6. Technology

-Natural and technological applications contrast surfaces and provide warmth in the winter through the uses stripes and plaid. (Yes, plaids and stripes will still be a popular pattern for skate and snowboard brands alike.)

-Performance denim improves function resulting in endurance lasting, urban sportswear. Particularly the use of Selvedge denim being utilized throughout premium lines in sportswear brands.

-Laser cutouts, the use of this cutting edge technology is filling the runways. It is of importance to the activewear market, as they were the first to adopt the technique. Laser cutouts allow the opportunity to create unique pieces of merchandise. Its popularity will continue to rise.

7. Graphics (In my opinion graphics are one of the most important elements when it comes to alternative brands.)Personally I have witnessed a large interest in graphic arts and tee applications. Many people are creating their own graphic tee shops for many reasons. It has also become a way for artists to show case their art, and the consumer to express expression on their chest through images.

-Vulgar or blunt images, (i.e offensive, humorous, sarcastic) are distorted or shredded or spliced. These pieces are then cleverly or cunningly repositioned and worked into strong typographic statements and assertive motifs in harsh scales.

The application of graphics may prove to be raunchy but the construction and design elements of other pieces like sweatshirts, sweaters, blouses, and accessories create an attractive look. Where spiritual and cultural Middle Eastern Influences meet modern day characteristics and quality. A quote from a WGSN article describes my thoughts on skatewear that I have witnessed emerge.

"WGSN looks at how superior construction and refined styling is moving Casual Skatewear in a premium direction".

Research conducted through wgsn.com and stylesight.com

Images obtained from wgsn.com, stylesight.com, and tumblr.com/tagged/skateboarding